Different experience from Iran as a traveler

Prayer on University Shahid Beheshti University’s campus

I think my experience in Iran has been slightly different from that of a traveller, as I went there for a course of Persian at Dehkhoda Institute.

I spent forty days there, and I have stayed primarily in Tehran, where the Institute was. I only traveled to Shiraz for a weekend and to Sari (in the North, near the Caspian sea) for another weekend. I had been in Iran before and I had back then visited Esfahan too.

Well, let me start with Esfahan. They call the city “nesf-e jahan”, half of the world, which in itself is not very surprising, if you think that there are many cities around the world where proud inhabitants make up phrases and expressions to promote the beauty and the unicity of the city itself (think about Naples, “vedi Napoli e poi muori” or Granada, “has llegado a Granada, lo mejor del mundo entero”). Well, I have to admit that few things I saw had on me the effect of seeing Naqsh-e Jahan Square in Esfahan. And not only the square makes you feel like you would like to spend some more time or even some years in that city, but also the streets full of young families having picnics everywhere you see grass, or the men sitting under si-o se pol, singing forbidden songs, promptly interrupted by the guards, when a too big crowd gathers to listen.

  • Tehran

Admittedly, going back to Tehran, having spent some days in cities like Esfahan or Shiraz, is a pure nightmare: the city is pregnant with smog, pollution, heavy air that makes you feel tired only after walking a kilometer on your feet, if you have survived to cross the streets in the middle of the busiest traffic you can imagine. But Tehran is unfortunately the heart of Iran, the political thermometer, the city where everything is possible: seeing a woman moving around with her headscarf fallen off her head, high heels and very very tight clothes, that don’t leave much to imagination, and seeing another one all covered up in her black chador, the two walking together hand in hand. Hidden house parties where as soon as you arrive, everyone goes to take off the many layers of clothes they were wearing on the streets and hurries to get drunk, and religious processions where believers flog themselves to the point of bleeding.

I see Iran as a country of paradox, a mixture of ancestral Zoroastrian culture, Islamic culture, western culture, and autochthonous Iranian modern culture.

And books: books are everywhere, books are scattered down on the pavement, on the piece of cloth where they are exposed by the street seller; books are staying orderly inside a book machine dispenser; books in the small library in Enghelab street where they organize weekly discussions about literature; books are in the hands of the women who fill the metro during pick hours in Tehran; books are everywhere. Poetry is everywhere too: in the speech of the taxi driver, in the song coming from the radio, in the recommendation of the grandmother while you are leaving her house, after helping her wash the dishes; in the air at the mausoleum of Hafez in Shiraz, crowded at whichever time you visit it, with people from all over the country.

Iran is the Persian teacher who will tell you more about the history of your own country than yourself have ever known. Iran is the incredible corners that open up unexpectedly while you are walking on the most common-looking street of Shiraz or Tehran, it’s the small café where you sit in an exquisite patio with a fountain in the middle and flowers all around. It’s Harry Potter café in Tehran, with the very young waitress who jumps up and down out of joy because she could exchange some French words with you; it’s Parvaneh market in Tehran, where all wishes come true, and all you ever wanted to buy is there, if you look closely and spend your morning going around its five floors. Iran is seeing a man walking his dog around with pride, in spite of the ban on possessing dogs, as they are supposedly haram.

Iran is many things, many people, and a huge country of which I only lived a small part, but where you will realise that, to say it with Maya Angelou, “we are more alike, my friends, than we are unalike”.

Qazvin is not a tourist destination for tourism!

I traveled to Qazvin a while ago. Not because I chose Qazvin, just because Tehran’s air was very polluted and we left the city to get rid of it. Again, our goal was not to travel to Qazvin, according to the habit of people in Tehran, we rode on the Chalous road, which kept us from continuing the path to the long traffic lane of the road. So we turned away and turned to Karaj. We hopelessly checked out the available facilities to retreat back home. Eventually we decided to go to Qazvin. We were not very optimistic about the choice, but there was no other option. On the way, thanks to the Internet, we went looking for a few hotels and eventually contacting one of the traditional hotels, traditional Behrouzi hotel.

I do not know how many times I’ve been to Qazvin province. I even traveled to the surrounding villages and nature of the province, once I stopped at my friend’s student Dormitory one night in Qazvin, but I never looked at Qazvin as a tourist destination.

This time it was important from the moment of my arrival to the city. Wide streets that have made it easy to get a positive feel to the traveler. The city was alive and, despite the heavy rains, people were in the streets.

We followed the map to get to the hotel location. A hotel in a traditional home in the city of Qazvin. In our path I saw the old bazaar. The excitement took me all the way, so after chek-in, we immediately went out. The rain was heavy. The Sadosaltaneh Caravanserai was the first place to go. The beauty of restoration and maintenance was beyond my imagination. Cafes were located there and helped experience a good sense of eating and drinking in the old space. We stayed a bit there and then returned to the hotel for a break.

The next day, we left the hotel to visit the bazaar, Chehel Sotun, Aliqapu, Safavi Garden complex, Naderi mansion, Mirza Karim bath, Barajin Tower and …. Every moment that I touched the sights of Qazvin, and every time I looked at people’s life, the question came to me about why I have never visited Qazvin so far? It was not only strange to me, my husband had the same experience. We have been passing over from Qazvin many times and we have never been to this city full of spectacular places.

Has not Qazvin been the capital of the Safavids before Isfahan? Is not that what we have in Isfahan,its primary sample is in Qazvin? Was not the  first modern Iranian street in Qazvin? So why Isfahan is half the world and Qazvin is just a city between the way?

I do not know if the proximity of this city to Tehran has exacerbated its beauty and majesty, or the people there,  themselves are not interested in attracting tourists too much.This unawareness of a beautiful city and close to capital of Iran make me think about how many other places in Iran I have just gone through?

My trip to Qazvin was less than two days. After returning every moment I think about there and look forward to a trip again, this time with planning and for a longer time to this city. Qazvin should not be lost.

Iran, you will go back for sure

For the ones coming from Southern Europe (like me), Iran is pretty familiar. Family and food are a predominant part of everyone’s life. For the ones coming from the North, well it might look quite “exotic”, but very easily approachable. The country is huge, and even if you decide to undertake the most common itinerary (as I did) through Teheran, Kashan, Isfahan, Yazd, and Shiraz, you’ll have the feeling that everywhere in Iran you might face a hidden gem, and that’s true.

  • A mural painting in Teheran

Every single region is spotted by great cities, archaeological sites or simply nice places to spend a couple of days. I was in Iran ten years ago for a long time and I still remember how hard it was to plan a decent trip through the whole country because time is never enough. That’s a kind of frustrating, but it’s also the reason of why the 90% (I think) of travelers want to go back.

So that’s my suggestion: take your time, and don’t presume to cover Iran in a two-three weeks trip. Forget it. Choose an area and explore it, and leave the others for further journeys. I did the classic tour in 17 days and still I had to rush from one city to another. Simply because places in Iran (both social and cultural) are above all interesting places where you’ll need to spend time observing people around, admiring a mosque detail, sitting and breathe. That’s the experience. Don’t miss it just because you want to see both Mashhad and Tabriz. 

  • Under the si-o-se pol, Isfahan


So here some places you could easily spend a half a day 

  1. Masjid-e-Jāmeh, Isfahan – It’s unique, literally. I never saw a mosque combining together so many islamic architectural styles. And it’s huge, calm and evocative. Speech-less. 
  2. Madrase-ye Khan, Shiraz – I found it by chance, and it has been like discovering the Paradise entrance. You can’t enter inside the big complex but the main central hall is the most persian panorama you’ll never see: fountains, palms and tress, the sun’s reverberations on the blue majolica. No-one around (excepts a cat colony) and some nice restorers that will be happy to explain you how they are preserving the old wooden windows. Perfect. 
  3. Islamic Revolution & Holy Defense Museum, Teheran – Behind the propaganda grandeur (and messages), this museum is very useful to understand the long, traumatic period of the Iran-Iraq war. It’s extremely immersive, high-tech and impressive (there’s even the reconstruction, in 1:1 scale, of a bombed village in Ahvaz region). With english audio-guide, quite uncommon in Iran.
  4. Sitting down on a carpet in an Imam Zadeh (mausoleum), but the list is quite long. The modern ones are small cities, well serviced by everything you might need, like Imam Zadeh Jafar in Yazd. The ancient ones are usually more intimate, like the really beautiful Emamzadeh Soltan Mir Ahmad in Kashan. In both cases, you’ll feel like home, and you won’t able to stand up and get out so easily (especially in summer). 
  5. Dolat-Abad Garden, Yazd – Persian garden is a state of mind. For Iranian culture the meaning of beauty, proportions, harmony and inner light was born among fountains and trees. And you can feel it. Dolat-Abad is in the middle of an arid land, but once you enter the garden you would be able to write poems in Farsi. But you can’t, so just have an ice cream and enjoy this peaceful corner.   
  • A present from a street baker


And a short list of something that you’ll love so much 

  1. Toys Museum, Kashan – It’s behind a hostel, so the first time I came across I thought it was a clever way to attract new clients. But no. The museum is small and very well organized, with puppets and toys from all over Iran and the world. The girl working there is very nice and can explain to you everything about it. They organize workshops and plays for kids and the walls are covered by super interesting drawings made by some artists in residence. 
  2. Jomeh Bazaar, Teheran – Almost 8 floors of a parking lot are there to explore. Everyone is there to sell something, and everyone is there to look around. Anything from stamp collections, pre-revolutionary memoirs, Persian carpets, clothes and jewelry are to be found. 
  3. Nabaat, in Farsi, or sugar rocks. It is usually dipped into a black tea to make it more sweet. Typically a little bit of saffron is added, or has several herbs in it as well. There are Nabaat shops which are bigger than a supermarket, especially in Isfahan. I got mad to collect as many I could, in different colors and tastes. 
  4. Bridges, Isfahān – the perfect pattern is: one bridge, one tea, observe the people around you singing, chatting and walking – next bridge, next tea, and so on. The river is unfortunately dry, but the long promenade is still worthing. At the end you’ll be in love with the entire world (even the police that lazily monitors the situation, why not).
  • Emamzadeh Soltan Mir Ahmad, Kashan

But the list could be more extended, of course. Above all, talk to everyone because everyone will talk to you. English is quite widespread, as well as Spanish, Italian, German, French (in Iran there are a lot of students of Japanese too). Iran has the most cultivated population in the area. Not only about poems of Hafez or Saadi. You’ll be impressed by the number of people that like talking about french cinema, jazz music, architecture, design, etc. Iranians (especially young people) knows everything of everything about the world. They are starving of experiences, interests and nice conversations. Which is not strange itself, of course. But because the 90% of the world inhabitants have a precise opinion about Iran and Iranians, which is actually completely wrong. You’ll realize it about twenty minutes after your arrival. And you’ll get lot of friends. Good suggestion: try to learn some words in Farsi, especially some jokes or funny expressions, you’ll be loved and pampered by everyone (Iranians are supposed to learn all the world languages but unfortunately no-one is supposed to learn Farsi, so a little effort in that sense could be a real challenge). Forget about everything you’re supposed to know about Iran, realty (as everywhere) is more complex than a couple of sentences on women and religion. Iranian society is incredibly diversified, and is facing a big, deep crisis that reveals how strong and ingenious it is. That’s why human contacts are the best memories you’ll keep with you from Iran.  

Everything you need to know about money and exchange in Iran


Rial or Toman? which one is used in Iran?

When it comes to money in Iran, everyone gets confused. But don’t worry I will explain everything here. The official rate here is Iranian Rial(IRR), it means that in banks and on our bills the currency is Rial.

In order to know Toman you need to omit one zero from the price. For example 10,000 Rial equals 1,000 Toman. On the paper bill, you will see the Rial always, but normally local people say costs in Toman because it is easier as it has one zero less.

Someties we also make it easire and say 1 Toman instead of 1,000 Toman. 1,000 Toman is almost the minumum amount of products and you will usually not expect change under this amount. So you will not amounts under 1.000 Toman a lot and when we say for example 50 Toman. It means:

50 Toman = 50,000 Toman = 500,000 Rial


In resturants most of the time you will you see the first two type.
Don’t worry if you get confused, sometimes it is also confusing for us. So I think people will understand and will help you calculate or just give you time to get clear before paying.

Or you could easily use Iranian prepaid debit cards which makes your mind free of calculating and gives you the option to see the price of everything you buy in Rial and euro or dollar at the same time.

For better understanding of the world’s most confusing currency in Drew Binsky point of view, watch the below video.

How and where to exchange in Iran?

In Iran, unfortunately, you can not use your credit or debit card, there is no international bank or ATM in Iran. So you need to bring cash with you. For the exchange you go to exchange offices, you can of course exchange in the airport if it is necessary, but usually the exchange rate is not high. If you are entering Tehran, you can go to Ferdowsi square where is the place where you can find many exchange offices. Ferdowsi square is close to the city center and you can manage to visit other sightseeing parts besides exchanging your money. The prices usually fluctuates a lot and sometimes it is good to exchange at the begining and sometimes not.

For checking the exchange rate you can visit https://www.bonbast.com/

I will not suggest google because the exchange rate it suggest is not correct.


Can I use my credit card in Iran?

No, unfortunately, due to an embargo that the US declared on Iran trading, any international credit or debit card doesn’t work in Iran banking system. So none of your local or international bank cards will work here. That’s why you should bring all the money you will need for your trip in cash. 

Is there a debit card in Iran?

Yes, Iranian have their own debit cards here and they can have cards, shop online, and pay on bank poses while shopping even in small shops. These cards are connected to Shetab system that is approved by the central bank. If you also want to have Iranian debit card to avoid caring your cash and shop online from Iranian websites,  you can use our prepaid debit card.

The Eternal Fire ,Jashne Sadeh

fire temple
eternal fire in Zoroastrian temples

        why we celebrate Sadeh festival ? Long Time ago, when the last days of summer was passing , people fill their warehouses for the hard, dark and cold winter. Winter was coming to give them frustration, illness and starvation. Therefor  darkness was sign of evil and then light , sun and fire was sign of God’s mercy on people.

In Zoroastrian religion Fire has a significant role. As they protect fires to burn for hundreds of years and different generation take care of an Eternal Fire inside Temples. Fire temple or Atashkadeh is a place of worship . You can visit  the fire temples in Iran  that there is an ever burning fire in them.

fire
fire is the light

Since fire is a symbol of truth and light for Zoroastrians , after passing one hundred days and  nights from summer , they celebrate Sadeh festival.  So It is a celebration to remember  the importance of light, fire and energy . light which comes from God in our heart.

So for this ceremony young teenage boys gather woods a day before festival. in other words it is kind of entering adulthood for them. such a notable ritual step toward manhood we see in all other cultures.

Sade Ceremony is the hope for near spring . still 50 days remains for spring to come and bring joy and prosperity to land.

So people wear all white clothes take their hands around the big fire . then a Zoroastrian priest  fires the bushes and together read some prayer.

After  the ceremony has ended the priest takes some remained fire from this big fire and take it to the fire temple and take cares of it until next year Sadeh celebration. they will use the exact fire to fire up the Next year firing. so this fire was lightening up for thousand of  years. The Eternal Fire!

Jashne-sadeh
Jashne-Sadeh

Tourguide and mother in Kharanaq trip

 I am a Tour Guide. I have led a lot of group tours over the past 7 years. I always believed that a tour guide is a teacher, but a trip teacher. Traveling alongside people with a lot of personalities is interesting for me. People of different ages with different abilities to endure travel difficulties. About 2 years ago, when I realized that I am pregnant,  I had to change my lifestyle, so abandon tour guiding. It is a job that quickly disappears from daily activities.

In the past two years, I’ve traveled less than my previous life. Whether pregnancy or breastfeeding, and afterwards, it is not easy to travel with an infant.

About a month ago, I decided to break this period when my husband suggested traveling to Kharanaq. 10 years ago, my husband and I met each other in Kharanq Caravanserai. He suggested celebrating the 10th anniversary in the same place. It was not easy for me. stepping with a 14-month-old son in this way, I thought it was madness. At first, I did not accept that, but later, with the support of two of my friends (Parastoo and Shamim who work together these days), I accepted. So we planned a 3.5-days trip to Kharandagh, a village in Yazd province.

Coordination began. After each phone-call I took for the trip, I had to feed my son or help him for sleeping or clean him. My friends and husband took some responsibility to help me. When the train ticket was opened on the railroad site, I had to buy it quickly, because it could be all reserved and we could lose the train. We all did it in the space where the child was crying. We must had written 35 names and 35 families and 35 national codes without the slightest error. Eventually, the tickets were purchased.

At nights, I was dreaming the nightmare that I lost the train, and the passengers, with the guidance of my 14-month-old son, started the trip. I provided a list of what to do and checked it many times each day.

Parastoo, Shamim, my husband and I, managed the tour during the trip. A tour of 35 people between 14 months to 70 years old. There were 3 other children on the tour, beside my son.

I didn’t sleep the night before the trip for various reasons. We were in the railway at 4 am before the rest. Everyone got together and the besides started. My child was sleeping in the carriage. One side of my mind was occupied by the guard for the ticket, another place to count all the passengers and at the same time worried about losing the carriage in the crowd.

When we arrived in Yazd, we were in charge of picking up passengers and riding a bus. I still was worried about losing the carriage. When I arrived at the Shah Abbasi Caravanserai, where we were supposed to spend 2 nights. I was responsible for setting the dinner, breakfast, the cold temperature of the rooms, the health of the passengers, along with a crying child who and couldn’t sleep and eat. To the end, I was sure I would not see the morning.

But I saw the morning, and we drove into the desert with travelers who were better than my imagination. The storm of sand in the desert and the destruction of one of the cars, along with the fear of damaging the child’s lungs, changed my mood again. The night we were all around the caravanserai, I felt calm.

The last day of the trip, visiting Meybod and Ardakan and Yazd, made the trip a bit heavy. At all these times costs should be calculated, we set hours to do so, and each time we should count passengers. At 8 o’clock we boarded the train. I felt like I was in a race and now is near the finish line. I counted everyone. I put the baby carriage in front of me and slept with the train shuffles.

In the morning, when we all came to Tehran with smile, I had a dual sense. Whether I have achieved success or went under the risk of stupidity? I still do not know. I don’t even know shall I advise anyone or not. Anyway, my friends, my husband and I did it all together.